Busosanseong Fortress, Nakhwaam Rock, and Hwangpo Sailboat in Buyeo
Walking Through Baekje's Last Capital: Busosanseong Fortress, Nakhwaam Rock, and Hwangpo Sailboat in Buyeo
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| Baekma River, Buyeo (Source: Buyeo Government) |
If you are looking for a travel destination where beautiful nature and deep history coexist, Buyeo is the perfect choice. When exploring the ancient Kingdom of Baekje, it helps to understand its timeline: while Gongsanseong Fortress in Gongju represents the Ungjin period, Buyeo marks the brilliant culture of the later Sabi period, serving as the kingdom's final capital.
Today, the entire city feels like an
open-air museum. Let’s take a walk through the heart of this final chapter of
Baekje's history: Busosanseong Fortress, Nakhwaam Rock, and the traditional
Hwangpo Sailboat.
1.
Busosanseong Fortress: A Walk Through an Ancient Royal Forest
Busosanseong Fortress served as the primary
defense for the Baekje Kingdom during the Sabi period (538–660 AD). Unlike
stiff, imposing stone fortresses, it blends naturally with the rolling earthen
mounds and surrounding pine forests.
Walking along its paths feels less like a
strenuous hike and more like a peaceful stroll through an ancient royal
backyard. The soft dirt paths and shading trees make it an ideal trekking
course for families and couples alike.
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| Busosan Forest Trail (Source: Chungnam Provincial Government) |
Following the forest trail toward the Baekma River, you will reach a sheer cliff known as Nakhwaam Rock (literally
meaning "Rock of Falling Flowers"). Perched at the very top is
Baekhwaam, a small pavilion built to commemorate the tragic end of the Baekje
Kingdom.
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| Nakhwaam Rock, Buyeo (Source: Buyeo Government) |
The Story of Nakhwaam:
According to legend, when the allied forces
of Silla and China's Tang Dynasty invaded the capital in 660 AD, the fall of
the kingdom became inevitable. Rather than being captured and humiliated by the
enemy, around 3,000 court ladies of Baekje threw themselves off this cliff into
the Baengma River below. The sight of their colorful silk dresses fluttering in
the wind as they fell resembled falling flower petals, which is how this cliff
earned its poetic yet heartbreaking name.
3. Hwangpo
Sailboat: Sailing Down the Baekma River
After descending from Nakhwaam, the best
way to wrap up your tour is by boarding a Hwangpo Sailboat (a
traditional yellow-sailed boat) from the nearby wharf.
Looking up at Nakhwaam Rock from the river
gives you a completely different perspective on its immense scale and
historical weight. The cool breeze from the river combined with the steady,
gentle movement of the wooden boat makes you feel as though you have traveled
back 1,400 years into the past.
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| Hwangpo Sailboat (Source: Buyeo Government) |
To make your day in Buyeo complete, make
sure to visit these two iconic spots located just a short drive away:
- Gungnamji Pond: Korea's first artificial royal pond, built during the Baekje
Kingdom. It is famous for its beautiful willow trees and the wooden
pavilion sitting in the center of the water. If you visit in July, you can
witness thousands of lotus flowers blooming simultaneously.
- Jeongrimsa Temple Site: Home to the famous Five-Story Stone Pagoda, a UNESCO World Heritage site. This pagoda is a masterpiece of Baekje architecture, showcasing a refined and elegant proportion that heavily influenced ancient Japanese temple designs.
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| Jeongrimsa Temple Site (Source: Buyeo Government) |
- By Car: It takes about 2 to 2.5
hours from downtown Seoul via the Gyeongbu Expressway and Nonsan-Cheonan
Expressway.
- By Public Transport: Take an
intercity bus from Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal directly to Buyeo
Intercity Bus Terminal (approx. 2 hours 10 minutes).
When people think of ancient Korean
history, Gyeongju—the capital of the Silla Kingdom—often comes to mind first.
However, if you truly want to understand the sophisticated, gentle, and
artistic soul of Korean heritage, Buyeo is an absolute must-visit. While
Gyeongju offers a grand and golden history, Buyeo greets you with the subtle,
poetic, and deeply moving culture of Baekje. It is a city where every corner
tells a beautiful story.











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